Yukatas on a tatami

Sometimes the road has a will of its own and the cyclist just has to let go of the illusion of control. Today is one of those days, with our planned route getting turned upside down because of an expressway not marked on the map and a crazy monsoon rainstorm. We ended up in a small coastal town, realizing that continuing in the pouring rain wouldn't be safe as cars probably couldn't see us properly and our brakes were sliding on the steep hills. We've learned to look for tourist information desks at train stations, and that's where we headed today as well. But the station was tiny and empty, with just train timetables on the wall. It just so happened that there was a small hotel across the street from the train station. Christoffer ran over to ask them about room prices but found out they were closed. However, the helpful young man who happened to be present anyway was able to recommend another place only a few kilometers in the direction we were coming from. The kindness and helpfulness of the random Japanese people we've met on the road never ceases to amaze us. This guy had nothing to gain from us, as his own hotel was closed, but he not only called the other hotel and made a reservation for us, but hopped in his car and lead the way so we wouldn't get lost. And so here we are, on the top of a small mountain in Imagoura, at a hotel whose name we don't know because they don't have a sign in English, but who provided us with the most exciting hotel room we've had on our travels. Granted, 9000 yen (about 90 dollars) for a room with no private bathroom is something you'd expect to pay on Manhattan, not in rural Japan, but just look at what we're getting for that price: a tatami room with two simple mattresses, a low table and Japanese-style chairs where we can enjoy complimentary green tea and Japanese TV, another small room with Western-style chairs and a sink, a small balcony, wi-fi in the lobby and - drum roll - yukatas to wear before and after bathing in the onset that's open 24 hours a day! As comfortable as we've been sleeping in parks and visiting public baths we both agree that our Japan experience just wouldn't have been complete without this unplanned hotel visit!